Favignana, two outstretched wings of white tuff in the Mediterranean. The Queen of the Egadi, the butterfly is the rock every day at the mercy of the Zephyr, but here they love this wind, which softens the hot and sticky against the even more salt on the walls. Because the wind stirs the landscape, rather it is part of it, like the Bourbon prison overlooking the island and the building Florio Instead, he dominates the center.
The old trap of real, unique King of shekels, now a museum and multipurpose center.
The butterfly, nature reserve (for how long? The danger lies drilling) paradise for divers, and underwater is even more beautiful on the surface, is the culture of the sea teaches. Favignana and its quarries of white tuff that creep under the ground, and where today, incredibly, grew vines and gardens.
Favignana and stolen the rock beaches caressed by a sea of blue as sharp as broken glass. Favignana and his two sisters, and Levanzo Marettimo, with the empty caves from the suggestions of their extraordinary wonders: the Thunder, the Camel, the Lovers, the Sirens, the cave of the Genovese Levanzo, where the petroglyphs tell us that the fishing here Tuna is the 10 thousand year old tradition.
The Butterfly and the slaughter of tuna, a chapter which was the very reason of Favignana, interrottasi in 2007 for lack of raw material. In 2008, we had tried to tuna fishermen drop their nets, with the intention to follow up the ultra secular ritual, a few specimens, small, had been captured, the unanimous decision was to return to the sea.
Between May and June, the blue fighter transmuted into a warm red of death. Consequence of the tight battle between man and tuna, almost a melee more like a bullfight with a peach and that just as the "matata" knew rituals lost in time. In mid April the tuna fishermen had already mounted the nets waiting for the passage of the schools of tuna that left the cold waters of the Atlantic to come and play in the warm Mediterranean. At Favignana were waiting rooms with deceiving the network path that the eye can not see the animal.
The big fish will come in, and room after room, pushed from tuna fishermen came death, locked in a black square where the boats were harpooned with shouts, chants and prayers.
"Luongo Jachinu u", Gioacchino Cataldo, was the last leader of the trap, the Rais, who once was also the head of the village. It was he who dictated the pace for tuna fishermen pulling their nets and push the tuna to the square of the blood. But year after year has reduced the slaughter, tuna become increasingly smaller and more scarce, the richness of Favignana impoverished with the sea and the cries of the Arab-flavored "Jachinu" destined to remember. If you happen to meet him while taking a drink downtown, get out the hat, the man is a monument.
He turns the page. The celebrated vipperia has not yet stable nest in Favignana. Yet for a large indeed, and not only by name, loved this island so much to make you more of a home, you actually built a real village, on the spikes of Punta Fanfalo.
It is a place built in the times to be suspect. They were in fact the seventies and villages had never heard but Vittorio Gassman, genius, ahead of its time and created this "lace" rock biancoavorio a cluster of small buildings perfectly camouflaged with the landscape and greening by oleander , the center heart of Greco-Roman arena. A great scene, almost out of proportion, where Victor is told, not stingy with his great art. It could happen that in a lazy midsummer evening, any night, suddenly acquired the trappings of the exceptional: the protagonist entered the scene, and then the crowd fell silent and frivolous holiday.
Punta Fanfalo Today, the elders still call Village Gassman (despite no longer belongs to the family), is offered in the catalog of a famous tour operator.
Recovered, but not loved by the locals, it presents quite differently from the canonical holiday village.
A gourmet step, a bet between a couscous in the center of Trapani, a basil pesto with almonds and a croissant with the granita and a last minute purchase by Antonio Tammaro (www.anticatonnaradifavignana.com): tuna roe (ie, eggs Tuna was the food of the fishermen, it should be cut with a knife, very thin, eaten with sunflower oil which does not cover the flavor, or purchased grated noodles and vegetables), tuna belly, a jar of tuna pÔtÚ with oranges and a inevitable bluefin tuna fillet stowed by hand, just to bring some 'of Favignana with him.
Do not forget a jar of honey and thyme thistle. (Antonella Durres)
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